The Challenge
I have cycled sections of the East Gippsland Rail Trail many times. This time was different. It was social. I had convinced my partner and several friends to do the trail over the course of a weekend. “Convinced” is the appropriate word as none of them are consistent cyclists or even enthusiastic ones. So, I hope I had decided upon an itinerary that both excites and rewards the “hesitant”. Cycling a rail trail, particularly one as beautiful as the East Gippsland version, is a tremendous and gentle way to feel the rush.
The weekend needed to tick off several boxes:
- It had to be easy;
- It had to include wineries; and
- It had to include downtime!!! (which for a avid cyclist was hard to conquer myself – but I think I managed it)
It also included a training plan, which, like all event training plans, was executed with varying degrees of success – but it did help in setting a goal. I created a blog to help in that endeavour moonee-ponds-creeks-trail-cafe-discovery which I credit for motivating three of the five participants to purchase new bikes in preparation for this great adventure. Brilliant start!
The Plan
Logistically, cycling a Rail Trail provides a challenge for the “hesitant”. Point-to-point is the first thing that comes to mind, but that means packing up every night. What a pain! I decided on Lakes Entrance as a base, as it is midway between Nowa Nowa and Bairnsdale and provided a lot more accommodation options. I had thought that we could ride from Lakes Entrance, using the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, but that meant cycling up hill and down dale for eight or so kilometres to get to the start of the trail. Notability on country roads. Novices would be put off before we had hit gravel! We settled on using Bruthen as a pivot point for both days and the drive to start would be short and comfortable.
Originally I had planned on doing an out and back each day, but as the training went through its gradual rungs of intensity , it was obvious that this would also be asking too much. 60 odd km’s doesn’t meet the “easy” principle for unseasoned legs and bums. Therefore, the rides would be one way. When I changed this part of the itinerary the sigh of relief was audible and greeted with many a toast leading up to the weekend. The plan therefore relies on finding a means to get bike transport to the destination. We settled on driving to the start, riding the trail and deciding on an appropriate means to pick up the car and fetch the riders who stayed with the bikes. That could be via a third party that chauffeurs you back to the start or a rider who is keen enough to ride back. In this case, that would have been me if riding was necessary, but we had a chauffeur (non participant) who was happy to play Uber. The other option is to drop off one car with bike transport capability at the destination first, then drive back to the start. All viable, none perfect as they are described, but when entwined into the experience, become part of the adventure.
Day 1 – Bruthen to Bairnsdale
Wineries. Tunnels. Farms (and cows). That’s the story of this part of the trail. The quality of the trail has gone through the roof post Covid. Could almost have done it on a road bike. Mostly compacted crushed bluestone from Bruthen to Nicholson and bitumen from Nicholson to Bairnsdale. Spoilt for wineries along the way. You can definitely quaff to your hearts content. Tambo Winery is only 12 kms from Bruthen (being one km off the trail at Pages Rd) . Tambo couldn’t be more welcoming and is visible from the trail . We stopped for lunch (BYO rolls from Bruthen Bakery) and lots of tasting. Be ready to do a bit of climbing to get to the winery, but the piazza setting is absolutely inviting when you get there.
Nicholson River Winery is a further 11 kms down the road (being approximately 2 km off the trail). Look out for the sign to Nicholson River at Stephenson Rd. The winery is setup for cheese and antipasto platters (and more tasting). Set on a hill it has a great view of the Nicholson River, however that hill is a doozy; 16% and then some. It caught a couple off guard, which necessitated some embellishment on how little was left in the trail to get to Bairnsdale. On this trail, if you want to get to the wineries you have to do some work before you get your reward!
The Nicholson to Bairnsdale leg is the longest and flattest of this section of trail (12 kms), the highlight of which is the bridge crossing the Nicholson River. The bridge looks across to the local pub. In hindsight, and it being only 200 metres of the trail, this would have been a better choice for the afternoon stop. All up, the trail was 36 kms and took just on 5 1/2 hours, with 2 1/2 hours of riding time. Cruising is mandatory when you take the opportunity to enjoy the bouquet, explore some wombat holes and experience the sweetness of wild blackberries for the first time. Even a bit longer, as the group had a cheeky beer at a local whilst awaiting the transport back.
Day 2 awaits after a good nights rest and an assessment of “cycling le tour” bodies!
Day 2 – Nowa Nowa to Bruthen
Cut right out of the Australian bush. This was a grand feat of engineering early in the 20th century. Nowadays, it makes for one of the most enveloping and calming trails that I’ve ridden. This was a morning ride, as there isn’t much except bush, between Nowa Nowa and Bruthen. Lunch at the local brewery was the reward for this day. It had rained pre-dawn, providing perfect conditions to show off what the Australian bush can offer. The wallabies that we saw were testament to that.
This section of the trail is suited to most bikes, except road. The trail is compacted gravel, with bits of loose sand. The trestle bridge at Stony Creek is the highlight, about 5 km into the ride. It also provides for steep gradients down and out of the valley that it is traversing. Like yesterday, they are upwards of 17% – but alas, no winery is within cooee of the trail.
The ride is a primarily a steady uphill for half of the 28 km track. Riding it you can imagine the steam trains of yesteryear, puffing up the steady slope. Yesterday’s ride was felt in the legs by some, who considered Siberia Crossing was aptly named about 13 kms into the ride. Water tanks for drinking water are provided mid way as well, which creates a perfect spot to stop and smell the eucalypts. Recent winds and rain had meant some cyclo-cross ability was required at one point, which added to the atmosphere of the journey.
The second half is mainly downhill and relief for those without the k’s in their legs. Around the 17 km mark, the start of the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail can be found. This, to me, is the landmark by which I feel all the work on the ride has been done, and it’s freewheeling from that point. Some may not agree, as there is a slight climb before that slide commences around 9 km’s from Bruthen. The arrival into Bruthen features the crossing of the Tambo river and another tunnel, the coziest of the trail. A quicker ride than Day One, with less distractions that the presence of wineries tend to promote.
A very satisfying morning’s ride, and the afternoon left free – as promised. Time for some R and R before heading into the gem that is Metung for dinner. All the talk is about when will we do this again. I can feel Murray to Mountains calling. Watch this space!